Posted by: koolwine | April 29, 2012

Argentina: Kamchatka

Kamchatka by Marcelo Figueras A ten-year-old boy struggles to adjust to life as a fugitive when the Argentine military junta threatens to add his family to the ranks of “the disappeared.”

Country Focus: Argentina

Kamchatka
By Marcelo Figueras
Translated by Frank Wynne
Originally published: Santillana Ediciones Generales, 2003.
My edition: Black Cat, 2010.
309 pgs.

Genre: Fiction
Time period:
1976

ANY CHARACTER HERE

World Lit Up Rating:
(On a scale of 1-5, with 1 book = turned off and 5 books = lit up)

What goes through the mind of a ten-year-old boy when his and his family’s lives are threatened by a nefarious government?  How about escape artist Harry Houdini, the TV show The Invaders in which aliens masquerade as people, and the tactical board game Risk, for starters? 

Set during Argentina’s “Dirty War” and featuring a family’s potential “disappearance” as its premise, Kamchatka‘s heavy subjects are made nearly weightless by a child narrator who chooses the nom de guerre “Harry” as a salute to his hero Houdini and who refers to his little brother solely as “The Midget.”

Harry is hilarious, innocent and utterly believable.  Although Harry’s personality and reactions to events are far different than young Suleiman’s in Hisham Matar’s In the Country of Men (Libya), the rich characterizations of both boys beg comparison.  Author Marcelo Figueras beguiled me with this intelligent, humorous and compassionate novel, his first to be translated into English.

Quote:

I thought mamá was beautiful.  All boys think their mothers are beautiful, but in my defense I have to say that mine had the Searing Smile, a superpower Stan Lee would have paid good money for.  Whenever she knew she was in the wrong – like the time I asked her to give me back the birthday money she’d asked me to lend her – she would use the Searing Smile and something inside me would melt  and I would suddenly feel too weak to insist.   (Actually, she never did give me that money back.)  Papá said we were the lucky ones; he said that in the bedroom she used the Searing Smile for sinister purposes but refused to say anything more, leaving the details to our feverish imaginations.


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Posted by: koolwine | April 18, 2012

Botswana: Twenty Chickens for a Saddle

Twenty Chickens for a Saddle: The Story of an African Childhood cover An off-beat New Zealand family of five lives life to the fullest in rural, AIDS-plagued Botswana.

Country Focus: Botswana

Twenty Chickens for a Saddle: The Story of an African Childhood
By Robyn Scott
Originally published: Penguin, 2008.
My edition: Penguin, 2008.
452 pgs.

Genre: Memoir
Time period:
1980s-1990s

Overall Rating:
(On a scale of 1-5, with 1 book = turned off and 5 books = lit up)

Want to read about unconventional white families making a go of it in the African bush?  Scott’s highly entertaining memoir is on par with Alexandra Fuller’s Don’t Let’s Go to the Dogs Tonight (Zimbabwe).  Scott’s father is a physician and her mother is an alternative medicine junkie, so Twenty Chickens also provides insight on local healthcare and the devastating toll that HIV/AIDS has wreaked on the country.

Quote:

“My own philosophy is that if something’s working and isn’t toxic and people are dying while you wait, you shouldn’t hang around for indisputable proof,” [said Dad].

“Obviously,” I said hotly.

Dad smiled. “Robbie, you’re a seventeen-year-old vegetarian who hypnotizes people to augment dental anesthesia. Born during an acupuncture session. And raised on Bach flower remedies, soya beans, and enough dietary fiber to meet the annual needs of a small city. The obvious is subjective.”

Author-ized tidbits about Botswana from Twenty Chickens for a Saddle:

Local lingo: Ga ke itse = “I don’t know.” Scott describes it as the “conversational brick wall of Botswana” and “frequently used to mean ‘I do know, but I don’t want to answer anymore questions,’ which happens often when Europeans ask more questions than are welcome.”

Amusing sign that Scott saw posted in the waiting room at the Botswana Department of Labor:

“So-called White People:
They are red when they are born,
They go yellow when they are sick,
They go brown in the the sun,
They go blue in the cold,
They go gray when they die,
And they have the cheek to call US colored!!!”

The author’s relationship to Botswana:

Robyn Scott

Robyn Scott

When the Scotts moved to Botswana in 1987, they were welcomed by family on both sides.  Scott’s grandfather on her father’s side was a Botswana citizen and had moved to the country in the 1940s when it was still the British Protectorate of Bechuanaland.  Scott’s grandparents on her mother’s side arrived in Botswana in 1974, several years after the country’s independence.

Although Scott lives in London and is a British citizen, she pays frequent visits to southern Africa and founded the  nonprofit Mothers for All.  Mothers for All supports  Batswana and South African mothers of HIV-positive children and women who are caring for orphans.
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Posted by: koolwine | April 6, 2012

Serbia: Regards from Serbia

Regards from Serbia by Aleksandar Zograf book coverA cartoonist records his thoughts on life in Serbia during economic sanctions and 77 days of NATO bombing.

Country Focus: Serbia (Srbija in Serbian)

Regards from Serbia: A Cartoonist’s Diary of a Crisis in Serbia
By Aleksandar Zograf (a pseudonym of Sasa Rakezic)
Originally published in Great Britain as Bulletins from Serbia: E-mails and Cartoon Strips from Beyond the Front Line by Slab-O-Concrete, 1999.
My edition: Top Shelf, 2007.
287 pgs.

Genre: Memoir/Graphic Novel
Time period:
1991-2006

My Overall Rating:
(On a scale of 1-5, with 1 book = turned off and  5 books = lit up)

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To make a long story short: In the 1990s, Aleksandar Zograf earned his living as a cartoonist in the Slobodon Milošević-ruled Republic of Serbia.  As Milošević’s extreme actions against ethnic Albanians drew international disfavor and media attention, Zograf began to relay his experiences in brooding and unsettling pen and ink comics.

Zograf splits Regards from Serbia into four chapters.   The first consists of a medley of comics about life under economic sanctions, from the worthless currency (one billion dinars equaled one American dollar), to the sudden disappearance of Mickey and Donald (the Walt Disney company stopped licensing its characters to Serbian companies), to how it feels when the world media brands your country and its citizens as the “the bad guy.”

The second chapter is fronted by Monty Python member Terry Jones’s darkly funny article “NATO Bombing for Beginners” and is followed by a-day-in-the-life-of  string of emails that Zograf sent to friends during the 1999 NATO bombing campaign.

Zograf’s black and white comics reappear in the third segment.  These strips are reprints of the weekly comic “Regards from Serbia” that Zograf illustrated from 1999-2001.

The final chapter is a brief, text-only recap of the March 12, 2003 assassination of Serbia’s Prime Minister and the following State of Emergency that lasted until April 22, 2003.  The book concludes with a strip from 2006 that touches on the ramifications of Slobodon Milošević’s early death.

Quote:

Today, while speaking to my parents, they told me a strange thing – during the first NATO bombing of the power lines, when they used some special weapon, never used before, to produce a blackout on the major territory of Serbia, my mother was in front of my parents’ house (they got a small fruit tree garden).  She saw something that appeared like light balls moving on the power lines and rolling on the fields around… The power station is just a couple of 100s of meters from my parents’ home and they would often look in the direction of it – as they feared that it’s going to be bombed, but this time there were no detonations at all.  It seems that what my mother have seen were the “soft bombs”, a new product made in the NATO laboratories… It seemed so funny to think about my parents witnessing the world premiere use of a new weapon…

The armchair travel experience:  Zograf bears witness to what happens to the average Joe when the international community decides to punish a country for the crimes of its politicians.  Ironically, these troubles and indignities reinforced the beleaguered population’s support for Milošević.  Zograf’s ground-eye view is tempered his by trips to other countries and his close connections with comic book artists around the world.  Despite all that he’s witnessed in his troubled homeland, he’s able to be shocked by the sight of homeless people sleeping on New York City’s sidewalks: “I’ve never seen anything like it even in that rotten old Serbia!”  How’s that for a surprising perspective?

The author’s relationship to Serbia:

Aleksandar Zograf / Sasa Rakezic mug

Aleksandar Zograf / Sasa Rakezic

Sasa Rakezic, who writes under the pen name Aleksandar Zograf, is a Serbian cartoonist.  He lives in the town of Pančevo.  During the 1999 NATO bombings, he “saw the actual moment the red mushroom cloud spread over my home town.”

ANY CHARACTER HERE

My opinion: I chose Regards from Serbia to see if I could get past my initial distaste for Zograf’s style of illustration.  I didn’t (and still don’t) care for his bizarre, R. Crumb-influenced sketches, nor for his habit of incorporating his dreamworld into the panels.  It wasn’t until I reached Chapter 2′s mood-lightening Terry Jones article and Zograf’s personable emails that I began to feel safe with this strange cartoonist as my Serbian guide.  By the time I arrived at the next chapter of comics, I felt less intimidated by Zograf’s artistic style and could better absorb and appreciate his work.
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Posted by: koolwine | March 17, 2012

Burma: From the Land of Green Ghosts

From the Land of Green Ghosts by Pascal Khoo Thwe book coverA chance encounter with a British university professor gives an indigenous Padaung tribesman the incentive he needs to leave totalitarian Burma.

Country Focus: Burma (Myanma in Burmese)

From the Land of Green Ghosts: A Burmese Odyssey
By Pascal Khoo Thwe
Originally published in Great Britain by HarperCollinsPublishers, 2002.
My edition: Flamingo, 2003.
296 pgs.

Acclaim: Winner of the 2002 Kiriyama Prize for Nonfiction

Genre: Memoir
Time period:
1967-2001

To make a long story short: Pascal Khoo Thwe grew up in the remote hill country with his Padaung tribe.  Ensconced in myth and traditional ways, he nevertheless decided to attend university in the bustling town of Mandalay and study English.  While waiting tables in a restaurant, he happened to meet Dr. John Casey, a Cambridge University professor.  The two hit it off and began a regular correspondence.

As Thwe personally witnessed the brutal and repressive actions of Burma’s government,  he began to speak out about its injustice.  His dissent endangered his life.  He fled deep into the jungle bordering Thailand and joined the rebel forces.  Thwe continued to write letters to Casey, who miraculously orchestrated the young man”s escape to England and enrolled him at Cambridge University.

Quote:

The beliefs we absorbed about the West strangely resembled the fantastic stories early Western travelers sent back about the Mysterious East.  One teacher at school had told us that in the West things were so advanced that pigs could be grown on trees, and that a type of furniture had been developed that could be eaten if ever food supplies ran low.  He also explained to us that the West got so cold in winter that if you peed outdoors the urine would instantly freeze so that you had to snap it like a stick.  We had a pretty good sense that these were tall tales – but they made better listening than the equally tall tales of the regime.  When we learned that the Americans got to the moon, for instance, we had solemnly been informed by a fanatical socialist-nationalist teacher : ‘Our ancestors got there centuries ago on the astounding flying machines that the genius of the Burmese had perfected – secrets alas now lost.’  We learned something important from all this: that the Burmese, after nearly thirty years of isolation from the rest of the world, constantly subject to official propaganda urging them to detest and despise the West, were in fact fascinated by the Western way of life and ignorantly credulous about it.

The armchair travel experience:  From the Land of Green Ghosts presents one of the widest-ranging depictions of country I’ve come across so far for this project.  Thwe starts off relaying the traditional lifestyle and beliefs of his Padaung village, including the “green ghosts” (spirits of people who had been murdered or who had died in an accident) referred to in the book’s title.  He recounts a diet very different from mine -  one of his most unusual meals is smoked pigeons with marijuana sauce.  He adroitly weaves in history and politics, including the vestiges of British colonialism, General Ne Win’s military rule, the hope engendered by opposition leader Aung San Suu Kyi, and the civil war being fought by Karenni rebels in the jungle .

The author’s relationship to Burma:

Pascal Khoo Thwe mug

Pascal Khoo Thwe

Pascal Khoo Thwe was born in Phekhon, Burma in 1967.  With the help of Dr. John Casey, he emigrated to England in 1989.   From the Land of Green Ghosts  is his memoir.

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My opinion: Thwe has written a compelling memoir.  From the Land of Green Ghosts is so jam-packed with tidbits about Burmese culture, and Thwe’s life is so vast in scope that I felt like I was reading a National Geographic story written by Forrest Gump’s Burmese counterpart.

One of the aspects of Thwe’s life that I found both fascinating and troubling was his struggle during his Cambridge studies to form personal opinions about a subject or a person – that the suppression of freedom of thought he experienced in Burma effectively eliminated (not merely smothered) his ability to be critical.

Overall Rating:
(On a scale of 1-5, with 1 book = turned off and  5 books = lit up)
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Posted by: koolwine | February 25, 2012

Cote D’Ivoire: Aya

Aya by Marguerite Abouet & Clement Oubrerie book coverEveryone in Abijan is partying except for studious Aya.

Country Focus: Cote d’Ivoire

Aya
By Marguerite Abouet and Clément Oubrerie
Translated by Helge Dascher; Preface by Alisia Grace Chase, PhD
Originally published in France as Aya de Yopuogon by Gallimard Jeunesse, 2005.
My edition: Drawn & Quarterly, 2007.
96 pgs.

Acclaim: winner of the 2006 award for Best First Album at the Angoulême International Comics Festival

ANY CHARACTER HERE

Genre: Fiction/Graphic Novel
Time period:
1978

To make a long story short: Aya plans to be doctor and chooses to study rather than party with her best friends Bintou and Adjoua.   Bintou and Adjoua are both attracted to Moussa, the son of Aya’s father’s boss, but there’s an even better looking guy, Mamadou, who keeps coming around.  After being caught grinding with Adjoua’s father, Bintou is placed under the (not-so) watchful eye of her distant relative Hervé, who is more interested in staring at Aya.  Aya reluctantly goes out on a date with him so that Bintou can sneak away to see Moussa.  Meanwhile, Adjoua has been meeting a mystery man late at night at the “Thousand-Star Hotel” and becomes pregnant.  Everyone assumes Moussa is the father, but the baby doesn’t look like him…

Quote:

Back home, we have a saying that goes: “You can always tell a woman by her pagne.”
A pagne (pa-nye) is a piece of brightly colored, wax-printed cloth.  Every pattern has a meaning, so you need to watch what you wear.  For example, now that I’m a respectable married woman, I would choose “capable husband” or “sorry, taken.”
-Bintou, who is single and looking for love, might choose “free as a bird” or “you don’t know what you’re missing.”
-Aya, who is single and prefers to keep men at a distance, would choose “watch my bite” or “go play somewhere else.”
A jealous or possessive woman would wear a pagne that says, “my enemy is watching” or “your foot, my foot, it you go out, I’ll go out too” – a clear message that she intends to keep a close eye on her husband.
A pagne can be sewn into a skirt, a dress or a pair of pants.  You can also take a smaller piece of pagne and wrap it around your head.  Very classy!

The armchair travel experience: A preface by Alisia Grace Chase, PhD gives a helpful introduction to Cote d’Ivoire’s political and economic situation in the 1970s.  I learned that Félix Houphouët-Boigny was the first president (1960-1993) of Cote d’Ivoire.  His development of the country’s cocoa and coffee industries boosted Cote d’Ivoire’s economy to unprecedented levels and was called the “Ivorian miracle.”  Aya’s family and friends are reaping the benefits of this newfound prosperity.

The dialog in Aya is peppered with Ivorian slang and expressions for which Abouet includes a handy glossary.   In Aya, domestic abuse and casual sex are  treated nonchalantly Men are very persistent.

An “Ivorian Bonus” section in the back of the book contains an interesting description of the pagne (see above) and recipes for Gnaman Koudji (ginger juice) and a peanut sauce known as “back and forth” because once you try it you’ll be back for seconds (and thirds). 

Marguerite Abouet

Marguerite Abouet

The author’s relationship to Cote d’Ivoire: Marguerite Abouet got to experience the country’s glory days, when the capital city of Abijan was nicknamed the  “The Paris of the West.”  Abouet was born in Abijan in 1971 and lived there until she was twelve.  She recalls this exhuberant and promising period of Cote d’Ivorian history in her series of graphic novels: Aya; Aya of Yop City; Aya: The Secrets Come Out; and Aya: Life in Yop City.

ANY CHARACTER HERE

My opinion:  Oubrerie’s vibrant drawings gave me a feel for the working class neighborhood where Aya lives, the maquis (open air restaurants/dance clubs) where Ivorians go to party, and Moussa’s upscale home.

I think that the most interesting part of Aya is the “Ivorian Bonus” information in the back.  I was disappointed by Aya‘s fractured storyline, which flits mainly from Bintou to Adjoua to Moussa.  Aya barely makes an appearance.  Abouet wanted to present Ivorian teens as flirty and capricious and living lives similar to their French counterparts.  In that aim, she succeeds.  Would I be at all interested in spending more time with this shallow and promiscuous bunch…no thanks.

Overall Rating:
(On a scale of 1-5, with 1 book = turned off and  5 books = lit up)

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In my book (or what Cote d’Ivoire has meant to me and maybe you, too)

Nothing!  My Cote d’Ivoire cup was empty until I read Aya.

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Keep Reading!

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As the Crow Flies by Véronique Tadjo book cover

Posted by: koolwine | February 12, 2012

Poland: Marzi

Marzi toughs out life as an only child while enduring  the shortages and fear prevalent in 1980s communist Poland.

Country Focus: Poland (Polska in Polish)

Marzi: A Memoir
By Marzena Sowa with art by Sylvain Savoia
Translated by Anjali Singh
Originally published in France as Marzi- L’Integrale 1 - La Pologne vue par les yeux d’une enfant and Marzi - L’Integrale 2 – Une enfant en Pologne by Dupuis, 2009.
My edition: DC Comics, 2011.
230 pgs.

Genre: Memoir/Graphic Novel
Time period:
1980s

To make a long story short:  Marzi is a little girl living in a drab apartment building with her parents in 1980s communist Poland.  Her father, a factory-worker, becomes one of the thousands who puts their lives at risk by participating in the anti-communist Solidarnosc movement.  Her mother works in a dairy and constantly criticizes Marzi’s penchant for wool-gathering.   On weekends and vacations the family visits their relatives in the country and helps harvest the crops that supplement their meager diet.  Sowa has recorded her life in brief vignettes,  touching on topics as various as the embarrassment of having to walk home with rolls of toilet paper draped around her neck,  drinking medicine to counteract the effects of radioactive drift from Chernobyl, and the fall of communism.

Quote:

Our communism’s fall wasn’t spectacular.  There was no splat! No boom!  The fall didn’t harm anyone, not even the “bad guys,” which didn’t make some of the “good guys” very happy.  But are they really good if they want others to suffer?
It wasn’t like the Berlin Wall.  Blam! Slam! Crack! Clear out, it’s collapsing!
A leaf dies quietly on a tree, simply detaches itself and falls.  That was the way our communism ended.  Who remembers a fallen leaf?  A gardener rakes it up, a squirrel grabs it, the wind carries it away – unless it’s a child collecting leaves to make bookmarks.
It flies towards the east and others say: Look it’s fall in Poland! We should be experiencing the same season too!  And they’re all connected, Hungary, Czechoslovakia, East Germany, Romania, Bulgaria..by blood, and spectacular falls.  Everyone’s fall arrives in its own way.
Ours was very natural.
We were the first leaf.

The armchair travel experience: Sowa’s reminiscences combined with Savoia’s straightforward and endearing illustrations make for a clear view into Marzi’s world.  Whether it was the episode about using window putty as chewing gum stand-in, keeping a live carp in the bathtub or her father sticking an electronic resistor in his lapel to signify that he was a communist Resistor, Sowa reveals her life so openly that I felt like I was her close friend.

A number of books featured in World Lit Up have depicted the violence and terror wrought by communism (most notably in Loung Ung’s memoir First They Killed My Father).  In Marzi, Sowa describes the smothering  and deprivation felt by its victims: the routine of waiting in lines for limited rations, forced marches, and the feeling of being watched.  The Marzi in this installment of her memoir may be too young to know why life in Poland is this way, but she senses the inherent indignity of it.

Marzena Sowa

The author’s relationship to Poland:  Marzena Sowa was born in 1979 in Stolowa Wola (Steel Will), Poland and attended college in Krakow.  Marzi is the first (and only one translated into English so far) in a series of six memoirs that chronicle her life in Poland.  In the book’s intro, she says, “I was born in Poland at a time when it was undergoing some big changes.  I watched it rebel.  I watched it dream.  And saw its dreams come true.  This allowed me to believe that through perseverance, stubbornness and force of character, you could change the world.”

ANY CHARACTER HERE

My opinion: I loved Marzi.  The vignettes are written in easily digestible lengths and the drawings are appealing and easily navigated.  Savoia’s choice of muted color scheme (predominantly browns and greys) imparts an appropriate glumness to Poland; he lights Marzi up by bestowing her with  orange hair and red shirt.  Fascinating and endearing, Marzi‘s only (minor) fault is that occasionally the translation seems muddled.  I can’t wait to read the next installment.

ANY CHARACTER HERE

Overall Rating:
(On a scale of 1-5, with 1 book = turned off and  5 books = lit up)

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In my book (or what Poland has meant to me and maybe you, too)

Joke’s over
“Dumb Polack” jokes flowed through my elementary school as thick as Elmer’s glue at craft time.  For a while I wasn’t sure what a “Polack” was, and after I found out, I still didn’t understand why we were making fun of Polish people.  Of course neither one of these knowledge gaps stopped me from repeating my share of these offensive jokes.  Those 1970s put-downs supposedly originated from Hitler, who was the first to publicly criticize Polish people’s intelligence.  His insults took on life of their own and eventually made their way into mainstream American living rooms via loudmouth TV characters like Archie Bunker and then trickled down to me during recess.

“On behalf of the camp administration I bid you welcome.”*
Auschwitz entranceAuschwitz, Sobibor, Treblinka…the Nazis scarred Poland with their evil concentration and extermination camps.   These places harbored masters and deeds too terrible for me to want to read about.  What I little I know of these camps I learned from movies like Escape from Sobibor and Schindler’s List.

*the beginning of a speech given to Jews arriving at Auschwitz for extermination

Fair food
Polish sausageI was reading the marquee menu at one of the County Fair’s concession stands when I had a complete junk food brain fart and stupidly asked my husband, “What’s a “Paw-lish?”  For the life of me, when I saw the word “Polish” I could only think of the cleaning-related verb and not the patently obvious noun for spicy, red sausage from Poland.  If only the sign had just read kielbasa, the Polish term for their gourmet hotdog consisting of smoked pork sausage flavored with garlic, pepper and marjoram.

He had the whole world in his hands
Pope John Paul II750,000 miles.  129 countries.  26 years.  During his tenure as Pontificate, Karol Józef Wojtyła, better known as Pope John Paul II, saw way more of the world than most folks  and he could talk to a good number of them, too – he was fluent in at least 13 languages.  A running (and unoffensive) joke about this world-famous  Pole was “God is everywhere, and Wojtyla has already been there.”  He visited more than double the number of countries covered in World Lit Up so far.

And I’ll end with a nocturne from a certain famous Polish piano composer…

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Keep Reading!

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Czeslaw Milosz

P Is for Poland by Agnieska Mrowczynska and Prodeepta Das

Posted by: koolwine | February 1, 2012

Indonesia: All That Is Gone

Eight beautiful but bleak short stories reveal the harsh realities of Indonesian life on the island of Java in the early- and mid-1900s.

Country Focus: Indonesia

All That Is Gone
By Pramoedya Ananta Toer
Translated by Willem Samuels
Originally published in Indonesia as Cerita dari Blora, 1952.
Originally published in America by Hyperion, 2004.
My edition: Penguin, 2005.
253 pgs.

Acclaim: Pramoedya won awards not only for his writing, but also for being freedom of speech incarnate

Genre: Fiction/Short Stories
Time period:
1920s-1950s

To make a long story short: Some are these eight tales are told in first person, others in the third, but all speak in the same soft, comforting voice that offsets their frequently grim storylines.  Wistful remembrances of childhood unfold in the titular “All That Is Gone.”  “Inem” becomes an unsuspecting child bride.  “In Twilight Born” tells of a dream of a free Indonesia deferred.  A boy toughs out a Muslim ritual in “Circumcision.”  “Revenge” describes a soldier’s horrified reaction to the savage beating of a spy.  A severely wounded veteran decides not to burden his family on “Independence Day.”  “Acceptance” is the key to a girl’s and her siblings’ survival during Indonesia’s political turmoil.  The light-hearted “The Rewards of Marriage” breaks the fourth wall, describing a story’s creation and ending to the reader.

Quote:

“I wish Mother and Father were here,” Hutomo softly cried.
A loud creaking and then a cracking sound drew their attention back to the house.  The timbers that had once supported the house were caving in.
“Who can we turn to?” Diah asked sadly.
“Nobody,” Sri told her.  “Not the Republicans, not the Dutch, not even our neighbors.  We’re going to have to accept that,” she added.  “If I’ve learned one thing from all that we’ve gone through, it’s that you can overcome anything if you can learn to forget about yourself.  Pretend you’re not even there, and all the suffering vanishes.”
Sri looked again toward the site of their former home.  All that remained was skeleton of what it had been before.  And all that Sri could do was sigh.

The armchair travel experience:  The preface to All That Is Gone states that Pramoedya’s stories are semi-autobiographical.  Most take place in Blora, Pramoedya’s hometown on the island of Java.  The tales are steeped in Indonesian history and Muslim as well as local customs.  By the time I finished reading, I had learned that Indonesians were long oppressed by a series of occupiers and insurgents including the Dutch, the Japanese and home-grown Communists.

The author’s relationship to Indonesia:

Pramoedya Ananta Toer

Known as Pramoedya (prah-MOO-dee-ya), Pramoedya Ananta Toer (1925-2006) authored over 30 books and is Indonesia’s best-known novelist.  His parents were ardent nationalists and much of Pramoedya’s writing critiqued the Dutch occupation of his country.   Pramoedya was imprisoned for his political beliefs on three separate occasions.  He devised his masterpiece, the Buru Quartet, during the 14 years that he was jailed on the island of Buru.   These highly acclaimed four novels chart the rise of Indonesian nationalism.   Upon his death, his daughter, Tatiana Ananta, told the AP that her father “dedicated his whole life to this country through his work.”

ANY CHARACTER HERE

My opinion:  The musician Tom Waits once said, “I like beautiful melodies telling me terrible things.”  In All that Is Gone, Pramoedya displays his like-mindedness.  He presents us with stories written in beautiful prose that tell us about the most wretched of people – people who are bereft of even themselves.  Pramoedya makes clear that his characters are Muslim, but I think that the recurring themes of suffering and impermanence imbue these tales with a strong Buddhist feel.  I won’t soon forget the tragic plights of the child bride in “Inem” and the heavily burdened Sri in “Acceptance.”

Overall Rating:
(On a scale of 1-5, with 1 book = turned off and  5 books = lit up)

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In my book (or what Indonesia means to me and maybe you, too)

Java jolt
Coffee has been called Java since the early 1900s, when the United States began importing most of its coffee beans from that Indonesian island.  Nowadays, corporations export coffee from many different countries, but I doubt that Americans will ever name our coffee huts after Guatemala’s or Colombia’s beans.  In Missoula alone, we have shops called Hooked on Java, Java U, Java Junction Espresso, Java Depot…

ANY CHARACTER HERE

Bali bombings
Until 2002, I had envisioned Bali as a land of backpackers and beaches.  A place completely untouched by real-world type stuff like manager’s meetings, alarm clocks and…Islamic terrorists.  I had not ever put much thought into which religion held sway in Indonesia, but in order for my guess to correspond with my imagination it would have needed to include Rastafari,  animism and the philosophy of “Hakuna Matata.”  The bombings in 2002 and 2005 made me realize that I shouldn’t judge a country entirely on its tourist brochure cover.

There’s no place like (an Indonesian) home
Vernacular architecture fascinates me, and in my opinion Indonesia is ground zero for some of the world’s most fantastical home design.   The traditional homes below may not have indoor plumbing, running water or a place to charge your iPad, but they sure do get points for style.

Batak Toba traditional houses around Lake Toba

Rumah Gadang - traditional house of the Minangkabau people in Sumatra

Traditional house on Nias Island

Lamin House - traditional house of the Dayak people in Borneo

Tongkonan - Traditional home of the Toraja people in Sulewesi

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Keep Reading!

Balinese Dance, Drama & Music: A Guide to the Performing Arts of Bali by Wayan Dibia, Rucina Ballinger & Barbara Anello

Krakatoa by Simon Winchester

The Year of Living Dangerously by Christopher J. Koch

Gecko's Complaint: A Balinese Folktale by Ann Martin Bowler & Gusti Made Sukanada

Posted by: koolwine | January 16, 2012

Morocco: Secret Son

A young man from the slums discovers that he was born out of wedlock and that his father is a wealthy businessman.  Devastated after his dear ol’ dad snubs him, he falls prey to Islamic fundamentalists.

Country Focus: Morocco (Al Maghreb in Arabic)

Secret Son
By Laila Lalami
Originally published by Algonquin Books, 2009.
My edition: Algonquin Books, 2010. 291 pgs.

Acclaim: Short-listed for the Caine Prize for African Writing in 2006;  Short-listed for the National Book Critics’ Circle Nona Balakian Award in 2009

Genre: Fiction
Time period:
Contemporary

To make a long story short: Youssef El-Mekki is a college student majoring in English.  He has a couple of close friends, enjoys watching movies, and hopes that his education will lift him and his mother out of the Casablanca slum that they call home.   After rains flood the area, a group of Islamic fundamentalists led by a man named Hatim move into the ruined movie theater and assist the stricken community.  Hatim’s  radical religious messages hold no appeal to Youssef, but he acknowledges that help has come from no other quarter.

Youssef had long believed that his father died from a tragic accident, so his kasbah is seriously rocked when he learns that not only was he born out of wedlock, but that his father is Nabil Amrani, a wealthy and successful businessman.  Youssef tracks Amrani down, who is delighted to discover that he has a son and gives him an apartment and a job with his company.   Youssef’s new digs and position last only a couple of years.  Amrani’s wife, brothers, and daughter pressure him to cut off  his new-found son.  Crushed by his father’s betrayal, Youssef returns to the slums and falls into an angry and depressed funk.  Hatim notices the vulnerable young man and wastes no time in exploiting him.

Quote:

All morning, as he had sat alone in the apartment, thinking about his father, Youssef had told himself that he should try not to look back on the past and should focus on the future instead.  Yet already he could not help feeling a touch of envy upon hearing about his sister’s studies at UCLA.  This was what people like the Amranis did: they studied in private schools, went to university in France or Canada or the United States, and then came back to run the country, while the rest of the people got by on fifteen hundred dirhams a month.  Youssef had heard a rumor that one of the government ministers smoked Cuban cigars that each cost that much – and he was never seen on TV without one.

The armchair travel experience: Lalami offers a passable explanation of how a young, liberal Moroccan would be compelled to participate in an act of terror.  She speaks of poverty, corrupt and negligent public officials, limited job prospects and the clever extremists who insinuate themselves benignly into the slums.  Men like Hatim talk their talk as they provide emergency supplies and free medical services, patiently molding their customers’ desperation and unhappiness into anger and focusing that anger in support of  fundamentalism.

This is disheartening to be sure, but PO’d young Arabs and their evil handlers figure in news headlines daily; hymenoplasty does not.  One of the most shocking lines in Secret Son comes from Amrani, who inwardly bemoans his daughter’s sexual activity: “Other girls would have been more discreet about their relations, then gotten a doctor to sew them back up.”  What he (and Lalami) are referring to is a popular North African reconstructive surgery called a hymenoplasty.  Some Arab hubbies-to-be are old-fashioned, and expect that their bride’s wedding night will be her first time.  Brides with a secret can undergo the aforementioned procedure, which re-builds the hymen to virginal standards.

The author’s relationship to Morocco:

Laila Lalami

Laila Lalami was born and raised in Morocco and grew up speaking Moroccan Arabic and French.  She attended Université Mohammed-V in Rabat and worked as a staff writer at the newspaper Al-Bayane.   She currently lives in Los Angeles.  Of the long distance from her county, she says, “…I hope that my life is in some way like the Qur’anic parable of the good word – a tree firmly rooted but with its branches in the sky.”  Her first book, Hope and Other Dangerous Pursuits, follows four Moroccans who undertake an illegal and perilous crossing of the Strait of Gibraltar for the chance to live in Europe.

ANY CHARACTER HERE

My opinion: Secret Son rivals Nuruddin Farah’s Secrets (Somalia) for the amount of er…secrets contained within, but Lalami’s novel is the easy reader version of Farah’s  explicit art-house work.  I was interested in hearing a native Moroccan’s thoughts on why fundamentalism might appeal to her country’s 20-somethings, but was only somewhat satisfied with her effort.  Lalami tells Youssef’s story straightforwardly and steadily, but he and the rest of the characters felt one-dimensional: the gullible young man, the beleaguered father, the deceitful mother(s), the rebellious daughter, etc…  I found Assaf Gavron’s stellar Almost Dead (Israel) to be the more illuminating read on the topic of homegrown terrorists. 

Overall Rating:
(On a scale of 1-5, with 1 book = turned off and  5 books = lit up)

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In my book (or what Morocco means to me and maybe you, too)

Here’s looking at you, kid
Casablanca is Morocco’s largest city and its economic center, but when I hear the name all that comes to mind is that over-hyped black and white Humphrey Bogart movie.  Casablanca seems to be a city best viewed in technicolor – especially the Hassan II Mosque, located at the edge of the Atlantic Ocean.  A section of mosque’s floor is made of glass, so that worshipers can see the waves directly below.   Above them, a sliding roof opens so that they can contemplate the stars.

Fast horses
Many of today’s thoroughbreds, including horseracing legends Man O’ War and Seabiscuit, claim the Godolphin Arabian as an ancestor.   Marguerite Henry gives a fictional account of this renowned Moroccan horse (who she calls Sham) and his young caretaker in her Newbery Medal-winning children’s book King of the Wind.  When I was going through my childhood horse-crazy phase, Sham was one of my favorite steeds, right up there with The Black from Walter Farley’s The Black Stallion.

ANY CHARACTER HERE

Fast carbs
Rice is my go-to carb sidedish, but sometimes I don’t want to wait 20 minutes for it to cook.  Enter couscous, an excellent rice stand-in that only takes five minutes.  Those round, yellow bits of semolina have been around since at least the 13th century, and are a staple of the Moroccan diet.   Here in Montana, I buy Near East brand’s Parmesan, Roasted Garlic and Olive Oil, and Mediterranean Curry flavors.  Fast and filling, they make tasty backpacking dinners and don’t use up my fuel.

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Keep Reading!

For Bread Alone by Mohamed Choukri

Year of the Elephant by Leila Abouzeid

This Blinding Absence of Light by Tahar Ben Jelloun

The Butter Man by Elizabeth Alalou & Ali Alalou

Posted by: koolwine | December 31, 2011

Croatia: Infidelities

The theme of betrayal infuses each of these eleven short stories about Balkan residents and émigrés.

Country Focus: Croatia (Hrvatska in Croatian)

Infidelities: Stories of War and Lust
By Josip Novakovich
Published by HarperCollins, 2005.
My edition: Harper Perennial, 2005.
241 pgs.

Acclaim: Novakovich won the Whiting Award

Genre: Fiction/Short Stories
Time period:
Various; from the eve of World War I to post 9/11

To make a long story short: The protagonists of Infidelities are as varied as the stories’ time periods and settings: a woman in Cleveland dreams that her new lover is the masked man who tried to rape her in Bosnia (“Spleen”); a cohort of Gavrilo Princip hopes to kill Austrian Archduke Franz Ferdinand himself (“The Stamp”); and a school boy whose terrible, horrible, no good, very bad day inspires him to join a band of enemy soldiers (“Snow Powder”) The book’s title gives away the subject common to the stories.  Protagonists betray their spouses, their country and their companions.   Some of these infidelities are merely fantasies, like the married man who daydreams about the woman who shares a box with him at the ballet (“Tchaikovsky’s Bust”). Others result in serious repercussions, like the Serb couple who abandoned their embattled Croatian home for a safer one in Serbia and are beaten by Serbian soldiers for their inconstancy (“The Bridge Under the Danube”).  

Quote:

“I was a pacifist, still am, and I dodged the Yugoslav People’s Army draft.  But in Sarajevo, the park I used to gaze at from my favorite cafe disappeared.  People cut down the trees and burned them at home in pots and makeshift stoves, smoking up their apartments.  The park became a bald meadow, with little tree stumps sticking out, like severed arms, with chopped hands gone, as thought the trees had stolen – what, air? – and were then mutilated according to the Koran laws.  I thought, you can’t take trees from us, and I volunteered.”

The armchair travel experience: Novakovich does not provide historical background for his stories.  He merely reveals the characters’ nationalities and locations and expects the reader to extrapolate from there.  Infidelities features Serbs living in Croatia and Croatians living in Serbia and the uneasiness that these minorities felt.  There is repeated mention of an area within Croatia called Krajina, which Serbia fought for but failed to annex.  Novakovich does describe the impact of the war on regular people: distrust of neighbors, looting, bombing, prejudice, and worry over relatives who have gone to war or who may be drafted. 

The author’s relationship to Croatia:

Josip Novakovich

Josip Novakovich was born and raised in Daruvar, Croatia.  Although he immigrated to the U.S. in the mid-1970s, he visits Croatia frequently and has sent his children to school in Zagreb.  Novakovich says,  “I imagine I will never be free from being drawn back to Croatia, though, or the impulse to flee it once I am there.”  He has published several other works about the Balkans, including April Fool’s Day, Salvation and Other Disasters, Yolk, Plum Brandy: A Croatian Journey and Apricots from Chernobyl.

ANY CHARACTER HERE

My opinion: I enjoyed the variety of situations and characters and found Novakovich to be an intelligent, talented writer.  My ignorance of the region’s political situation and past conflicts made the context of some of the stories confusing.  The Serb and Croat labels initially threw me – Who are the good guys?  What was the fighting about? – but I learned not to sweat it.  Fear, lust and vengeance are Novakovich’s true focus, not Balkan history.

Overall Rating:
(On a scale of 1-5, with 1 book = turned off and  5 books = lit up)

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In my book (or what Croatia means to me and maybe you, too)

1,246 Dalmatians
That’s Dalmatian islands, not dogs, although the spotted breed did originate from this area.  Dalmatia is the southern splinter of Croatian coastline that rests against the Adriatic Sea.  I first read about this vacation destination in National Geographic Adventure.  Stunning scenery and relatively low-cost seaside European travel…my tail is wagging!

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Keep Reading!

How We Survived Communism & Even Laughed by Slavenko Drakulic

Running Away to Home by Jennifer Wilson

A Taste of Croatia by Karen Evenden

Posted by: koolwine | December 16, 2011

Iceland: Last Rituals

A wealthy family enlists the help of a lawyer to  track down their son’s killer.

Country Focus: Iceland (Island in Icelandic)

Last Rituals
By Yrsa Sigurdardóttir
Translated by Bernard Scudder
Originally published in Iceland as Þriðja táknið by Veröld, 2005.
My edition: HarperCollins, 2007.
314 pgs.

Acclaim: Sigurdardóttir is the winner of the IBBY Award and the Icelandic children’s book award

Genre: Fiction
Time period:
2005

ANY CHARACTER HERE

To make a long story short:  The corpse of Harald Guntlieb, a German university student attending school in Reykjavik, sports empty eye sockets and a baffling pattern scored on his chest.  These gruesome mutilations may have had something to do with Harald’s field of study: torture and witchcraft.  Regardless of their son’s macabre interests, his parents want to know who murdered him and desecrated his corpse. Unsatisfied with the suspect that the Icelandic police have in custody, the wealthy Guntliebs send their emissary, Matthew Reich, to Iceland to enlist the help of a local lawyer, Thóra Gudmundsdóttir.  This single working mother of two is behind on her bills,  so she accepts the odd but lucrative offer to be Matthew’s guide and translator.   Sparks fly between the two as they question the dead man’s strange friends and travel to Iceland’s witchcraft-related sites in a race to uncover Harald’s real killer.

Quote:

Marta Mist groaned.  “I’m not going to play teacher with you.  All you need to understand is that magic is just an individual’s attempt to influence  his own life in unconventional ways – at least, unconventional to the modern mind.  In its day it was very common and for those born into poverty at the time it was the only hope they had of possibly changing their circumstances for the better.  It mainly involves performing acts that will twist events in your favor -  sometimes at someone else’s expense, sometimes not.  In my view, when you’ve made the effort to perform the charm you’ve taken on step toward a specific aim and you can focus on it better afterward, so you’re more likely to achieve it than before.”

The armchair travel experience: When summer temperatures of 70° F are referred to as a “heatwave” you know you’re reading about a northern country.  Aside from fretting about the icy roads, Thóra bemoans the fact that living in one of the world’s smallest countries means that you inevitably  run into people you would rather not see again, like one-night-stands and ex-husbands.  Last Rituals touches on a few Icelandic historical and literary references: Saemundur the Wise (a folkloric figure), Brynjólfur Sveinsson (16th century collector of Norse literature),  and Jón Arason (the last Catholic Bishop of Iceland).  Since Harald’s thesis topic focuses on the practice of witchcraft in Iceland, Sigurdardóttir gets the chance to inform readers that witch-hunters burnt more men than women at the stake in Iceland – a historical anomaly.

The author’s relationship to Iceland:

Yrsa Sigurdardottir

Yrsa Sigurdardóttir lives in Seltjarnarnes, a suburb of Reykjavik.  This award-winning author continues to work as division manager of Verkís, an engineering firm that specializes in geothermal and hydropower projects.  Sigurdardóttir started off  writing children’s books; two out of five won Icelandic book awards.  In the wake of those successes, she turned to crime…novels.  Each of her six murder mysteries has attracted more readers and attention than the last.

My opinion:   The best thing about Last Rituals  is that it rips along at a steady pace.  Despite the novel’s occult theme, the content is surprisingly tame.  Remember that 80s TV show Scarecrow and Mrs. King?  That’s about how harmless and G-rated earnest Thora and stuffy Matthew are.  Like Mrs. King, Thóra is a divorced mother who has a job that is out of her league but whose common sense carries her through the case.  Like the Scarecrow, Matthew is an experienced investigator who needs a sweet but naive female partner to help him solve crimes.  I had to wonder if both characters’ dorkiness stems more from a bad translation than Sigurdardóttir’s writing.  She imparts a silliness to some scenes must have hitched a ride from her chidren’s book past.  This is Crime lite. 

Overall Rating:
(On a scale of 1-5, with 1 book = turned off and  5 books = lit up)

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In my book (or what Iceland means to me and maybe you, too)

Leif’in Iceland for North America?  Dynamite!
In the 1970s, I read about Leif Erickson in school and Leif Garrett in Dynamite.  Learning about two famous Leifs simultaneously was too much for me; I am forever confusing Erickson, Icelandic explorer and son of Eric the Red, with long-haired American teen idol Garrett.  Erickson earned his place in history books by being the first European to land in North America (not including Greenland, a feat that his father had already accomplished).  He stepped ashore sometime around 1000, beating Columbus by 500 years.

It’s always sweater weather in Iceland
A kid in my high school traveled to Iceland on a family vacation.  He returned to class wearing an Icelandic sweater.  Being the coolest boy in our class, he rocked it, but if it had been me cocooned inside a big wool sweater with a doily pattern around the neck… Let’s just say that I would have wished that I’d brought back some postcards instead.

ANY CHARACTER HERE

Keeping Reykjavik Weird
Pop star Björk’s ultra-foreign mononym, seldom-heard-from homeland, sprite-like features, distinctive voice and strange choice of outfits, including the swan dress that she wore to the 2001 Academy Awards  make her Iceland’s most recognizable export.  Björk’s unique look and voice make a lasting impression even on a non-fan like me, which means that she also makes an easy target for impressions.  Kristen Wiig does an amusing one on SNL.

ANY CHARACTER HERE

Fire and Ice
The 2010 eruption of  the volcano Eyjafjallajökull shut down Europe and every non-Icelandic reporter’s mouth. What other natural disaster can claim to have ruined the travel plans of President Barack Obama, U.S. Secretary of State Hillary Rodham Clinton, John Cleese, Whitney Houston, Miley Cyrus and Usher?  This ash-spewing tongue-twister is just one of 35 active volcanoes located on and near Iceland.  Click here for photos that look like they were shot from Mordor by Frodo and Sam.

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